Beronia Graciano Rioja 2020 750ml

Beronia's single-varietal Graciano represents a bold exploration of Rioja's rarest noble grape, showcasing a variety that typically plays a supporting role in blends but here takes center stage with spectacular results. The 2020 vintage provided ideal conditions for this late-ripening variety, producing a wine of remarkable intensity and distinctive character that challenges preconceptions about Rioja.

The wine pours an almost opaque purple-black, immediately signaling the concentration that Graciano can achieve. The aromatics are intense and exotic—wild blackberries, blueberries, and black cherries mingle with pronounced floral notes of violets and lavender. What sets Graciano apart is its distinctive spicy character, evident here in notes of black pepper, licorice, and exotic spices. As the wine opens, additional layers emerge: dark chocolate, graphite, fresh herbs, and a subtle gamey quality that adds intrigue.

The palate experience is unlike any other Rioja variety. The texture is dense and mouth-coating, with massive but remarkably fine tannins that provide incredible structure. Concentrated black fruit flavors flood the mouth—blackberry compote, black cherry liqueur, and plum reduction—but there's remarkable freshness too. Graciano's naturally high acidity provides lift and energy, preventing any sense of heaviness despite the wine's obvious power. Mid-palate, those distinctive spice notes intensify, joined by herbs, minerals, and dark chocolate.

Beronia's decision to bottle Graciano as a single variety allows wine lovers to understand why this grape is so prized, despite its challenging cultivation. The winemaking shows ambition but also restraint, using oak to frame rather than dominate the variety's unique character. The finish is extraordinarily long and complex, with waves of fruit, spice, and mineral that seem to evolve with each passing second. This is a wine for adventurous drinkers, best paired with equally bold foods like game, aged beef, or strong cheeses. A fascinating glimpse into Rioja's biodiversity and a compelling argument for preserving rare indigenous varieties.