Giovanni Almondo Vigne Sparse Roero Arneis 2022 750ml

From the rolling hills of Roero comes this exceptional Arneis that showcases why this once nearly-extinct variety has become Piedmont's most important white wine. Giovanni Almondo's 'Vigne Sparse' (scattered vines) bottling draws fruit from multiple small parcels of old vines, creating a wine of remarkable complexity and character. The 2022 vintage demonstrates the producer's commitment to elevating Arneis beyond simple, everyday white wine to something truly special.

The wine presents a bright straw-yellow color with golden reflections, suggesting both freshness and concentration. The nose is immediately expressive, offering the classic Arneis combination of fruit and floral notes elevated by surprising complexity. White peach, pear, and citrus blossom lead, followed by distinctive notes of almond, white flowers, and fresh herbs. As the wine opens, subtle hints of honey, chamomile, and a mineral quality reminiscent of crushed seashells emerge, adding layers of intrigue.

On the palate, this Arneis delivers a beautiful balance of richness and freshness that sets it apart from simpler versions. The texture is medium-bodied with a subtle creaminess, likely from lees contact, that adds depth without sacrificing the variety's inherent elegance. Flavors of stone fruits, citrus, and white flowers are complemented by Arneis's characteristic bitter almond note on the finish. The wine's natural low acidity is skillfully managed, maintaining freshness through careful vineyard and cellar work.

What distinguishes this Giovanni Almondo bottling is its serious approach to a variety often dismissed as simple. The old vines from multiple sites create complexity, while meticulous winemaking preserves the delicate aromatics that make Arneis special. This is not just a fresh white wine for casual drinking, but a structured, age-worthy expression that shows how compelling Arneis can be in the right hands. The 'Vigne Sparse' concept allows for a more complex expression than single-vineyard bottlings might provide.

The finish is long and satisfying, with persistent notes of fruit, almond, and a subtle mineral tang. This is a versatile wine that pairs beautifully with the rich cuisine of Piedmont—vitello tonnato, truffle dishes, or creamy risottos—while also excelling with simple grilled fish or vegetable antipasti. For those who know Arneis only as a light aperitif wine, this bottling offers a revelation of what the variety can achieve. It stands as proof that Piedmont's white wines deserve the same respect as its famous Nebbiolo-based reds.